Are Concrete Tiles Good For A Backsplash?
Are Concrete Tiles Good For A Backsplash?
Yes, there are many options when it comes to choosing a backsplash material. However, one material that is often overlooked is concrete.
Concrete tiles can be a great option for a backsplash, as they are durable, easy to clean and offer a unique look. Concrete is a very strong and durable material so it can stand up to the rigors of daily use in the kitchen.
It is also very easy to clean, as it is non-porous and does not stain easily. Plus, if you spill something on a concrete tile, it is easy to wipe it clean. Concrete tiles also offer a unique look you cannot get with other materials.
Because each concrete tile is a hand-made art object, the tiles do not all look the same so you can pick out a unique look for your kitchen backsplash. Another thing to consider about concrete tiles is that they are relatively lightweight.
This can be an advantage because it makes installing them easier and less expensive than installing some types of tile. However, it is important to note that concrete tiles are not always as durable as other types. They may crack more easily and cannot withstand rough treatment like other materials.
Can You Lay Quarry Tiles On Concrete?
Yes, Quarry tile is an excellent choice for flooring that can withstand little misuse while also looking decent. Quarry tile is constructed of red clay thicker and heavier than ceramic tile. It is often sold in 12-inch squares.
Install quarry tile in entryways, kitchens, and outdoor areas where a robust, long-lasting surface is required.
While quarry tile is long-lasting, its unglazed surface is porous and prone to stains and moisture, protecting it after installation.
Use a 4-foot level to check the floor where the quarry tile will be laid and level any uneven places with self-leveling cement on a concrete floor or cement backer board on a hardwood subfloor.
Backerboard should be installed to the wood flooring using corrosion-resistant nails or screws; follow the manufacturer’s instructions and secure it with a hammer or screw gun.
Using a tape measure, measure from corner to corner and mark the middle of the floor where those diagonals cross.
Draw chalk lines across the center to serve as reference points for the length and breadth of the floor. To ensure that the intersections are square, use a carpenter’s square.
Arrange tiles in a pattern along the instructions, using as many whole tiles as feasible. If required, adjust tiles from the centering lines to avoid any thin tiles at the margins. Make any changes with a new chalk line, keeping the lines straight and the corners square.
Dampen the concrete or cement backer board with water; use a wallpaper brush to distribute the water evenly but not to form puddles, and cover one area at a time.
Combine the mortar and water in a large mixing bowl according to the package guidelines. Use the tile supplier’s specified mortar. It should be thin enough to spread yet thick enough to stand on its own.
Using the notched side of a flat mason’s trowel, spread mortar over an area, beginning in the middle and working toward a corner. Cover approximately nine tiles at a time.
Set the first tile in place at the center intersection and work toward the walls, pushing the tiles firmly into the mortar. Wiggle each tile a little to set it securely.
Use plastic tile spacers to create a grout line between tiles; these can be any size, but most quarry tiles require 3/8-inch gaps.
After the first nine tiles have been put, run a level across them and use a rubber mallet to tap down or modify high or low locations.
Working on the walls, use a masonry saw to trim tiles to fit at the margins, or score a tile with the trowel and snap it against a straight edge. For notches and other intricate cuts, use a saw.
Cover the floor in nine-tile squares, working toward an escape door to avoid having to converse on the fresh tile.
Continue to level tiles inside sections and throughout the floor. To inspect the whole floor, lay a long 2-by-4-inch board across the area and place a level on it.
Wait 24 hours before removing the tile spacers. Using a rubber grout float, fill in the gaps between the tiles.
After all, joints have been filled, use a moist sponge to remove any excess grout from the tile surface. Allow the grout to dry before wiping away any excess with a soft, dry cloth.
Apply sealant with a paint roller or equivalent applicator, making sure to cover the whole surface. Allow the sealant to cure in between applications. Dripping water in an inconspicuous spot to see if more coatings are required; if it pools on the surface, the tile is sealed.