Does It Cost More To Build A Concrete Block House?
Does It Cost More To Build A Concrete Block House?
There are a few factors to consider when determining whether a concrete block house will cost more than a traditional wood frame house. The first is the cost of the materials themselves.
Concrete blocks are generally more expensive than lumber, so the initial cost of construction will be higher for a concrete block house. However, concrete block is very durable, so that it will require less maintenance and repair over time.
This could offset the initial higher construction cost over the long term. Another factor to consider is the labour required to build each type of house.
Concrete block houses require more specialized labour than wood frame houses, so the labour costs will be higher.
However, because concrete block houses are more durable, they may require less repairs and maintenance over the lifetime of the house.
Repairing and maintaining a concrete block house is possible, but it requires more time and effort than repairing or maintaining a wood-framed house.
If building a concrete block home is an option, use the following tips to find an experienced builder to construct your home:
How Are House Numbers Installed On Concrete?
Modern house numbers have a significant impact on the appearance of a home. Even a dated exterior can look more contemporary just with a modern style of house numbers near the front door.
Installing house numbers is simple if the house has wood siding or something comparable. However, it appears difficult if the entry contains rock, brick, or concrete barriers. These materials are difficult to work with.
The drill bit is important for correctly putting house numbers on a rock face. To pierce the rock, a carbide-tipped drill bit is necessary.
The drill is another key component for a good rock face drilling experience.
Depending on the hardness of the rock/brick/concrete, a standard power drill with a hammer function could work.
After drilling all the holes, it’s time to attach the numbers. Examine each number’s mounting screws. Because there is a floating or flush mount option, in this case, the mounting screws have both a longer and shorter side.
To make the house numbers appear to float, connect the shorter side of the mounting screws to the numerals while leaving the longer side visible.
Install Mounting Screws On Each Number.
To verify that the holes are deep enough and precisely positioned, dry-fit each number into its assigned holes immediately before installation.
Re-drill to clean away any rock debris that has fallen into the rear of a drilled hole. It is critical for a stable floating mount.
Mount the numerals using clear silicone or exterior construction glue. Add adhesion to one number at a time.
Choose one number, make another short dry-fit, and then plug the drill holes with glue or silicone.
Fill the holes to the brim, but not overflowing.
Enter The House Numbers.
Insert the mounting screws for the house number into the adhesive-filled holes. Push the number in so that it rests flat. If necessary, wipe away any excess adhesive.
Cover The Numerals With Tape.
To prevent slippage, use masking or painter’s tape to hold the numerals in place for several hours while they dry. In this case, the glue was allowed to dry overnight.
Carefully remove the tape when the construction adhesive (or silicone) has completely dried.
How Do I Fill The Gap Between My Concrete And House Driveway?
Three common actions must be taken to fill the space between a garage and a driveway properly: Clean the gap and measure it. Backer rod should be used. Seal the opening with sealant.
Clean The Gap And Measure It
To clean and assess the troublesome gap adequately, many instruments are required. To begin, you’ll need a digging instrument, such as a wire brush or screwdriver.
Because its bristles are often composed of steel, a wire brush may be used to scrape. For more difficult tasks, a screwdriver may be required.
You may scoop out the different trash, dirt, and other loose particles that may have fallen into the gap over time with any or both tools.
Then, using a shop vac, suck up any excess material that couldn’t be reached or removed by hand.
A shop vac is a type of vacuum specifically built for use in woodworking shops and construction sites.
Shop vacs feature a bigger, more robust hose and tank that can handle more difficult things. This may be required for loose concrete that has deteriorated over time.
You may also use a pressure washer. Consumer Reports explains that a pressure washer utilizes gas or electricity to spray highly pressured water over a surface.
The procedure can eliminate any grime from a surface and is commonly used just for driveways or patios.
After cleaning the gap, you’ll need to measure it to figure out how to fix it appropriately.
Use Backer Rod
When the gap is too great, a backer rod is required, but the form and substance of the rod give additional benefits.
It can assist the sealant link with either side of the gap by increasing flexibility and making future sealant replacement easier. The rod, of course, will prevent you from using as much sealant.
So you should now tuck the backer rod into the gap, and a putty knife may come in handy for this. The backer rod is typically positioned a quarter to half an inch beneath the gap’s surface.
This generally leaves enough space for the sealant.
However, different backer rods may come with instructions that advise different optimal depths.
Apply Sealant To The Gap
A caulk gun will be required to apply the sealant. This is a gadget for distributing huge amounts of sealant without having to squeeze tubes by hand. Caulk cartridges are also available.
A squeeze tube is usually attached to the caulk gun. Then, you squeeze the huge trigger repeatedly, causing a plunger to pump sealant out of the tube.
Self-levelling caulk is a smoother, liquid-like material than regular caulk. As a result, you won’t need to run two lines through the gap.
Allow the caulk to get ahead of the caulk gun’s nozzle and completely fill up the junction.
Once the gap has been filled, use a caulk spatula to push the caulk into the joint, increasing adherence uniformly.
It will grab the sides better and efficiently fill the gap. Self-levelling sealant often requires just moderate dry tooling.