How Do You Do A Concrete Overlayment On Tile Countertops?
How Do You Do A Concrete Overlayment On Tile Countertops?
Concrete countertops are normally the realm of experts, but with a few simple tools and equipment, you can put a concrete overlay over an existing tiled countertop.
Sinks and drop-in cooktops, for example, should be removed first. Overlaying is time-consuming, but you’ll be able to use the countertops again in one or two weeks, depending on the size and amount of concrete required.
Set Up The Tile.
To connect with the concrete overlay, the tile surface must be roughened, and heavy-duty sandpaper with a medium grain is ideal. Instead of cheap aluminum oxide sandpaper, go for silicon carbide or ceramic sandpaper.
Because the vibration of a portable power sander might dislodge tiles, it’s preferable to sand by hand. The idea is to ruin the tiles and add texture or “teeth” to them. Once the tiles have a scratched haze, you may wipe the countertop with a moist sponge or towel.
Drop cloths cover areas where the overlay may leak, and painter’s tape shields the wall and cabinet edge from inadvertent spatters.
Create The Overlay.
The component you’ll need for the overlay is the concrete resurfacing mix. It is available in powder form and frequently resurfaces concrete sidewalks, steps, and other concrete surfaces.
It quickly sets when mixed with water, so don’t combine it until you’re ready to distribute it over the tiles.
The mixing instructions provided by the manufacturer differ and are crucial to the product’s effectiveness.
A power drill with a metal paint mixing tool, akin to an enormous kitchen mixer, makes blending the components easier for big batches. Still, you can mix a batch for a small countertop in a bucket using an old wooden spoon or paint mixing stick.
Colored concrete is made by mixing powdered concrete stain into the ingredients. Cement dust is harmful if breathed, and it irritates the skin, hence a paper mask, gloves, and enough ventilation are recommended.
Apply The Overlay.
Time is of the essence after mixing; pour the resurfacer over the tiled countertop and distribute it evenly using a rubber-backed grout float or a level trowel.
A grout float is a rectangular, paddle-style instrument with the appearance of a dry cloth floor sweeper’s head. If you want an uneven hue like real stone, add one or more tones of concrete stain to the mixture as you spread it.
Thin layers of resurfacer are preferable than one thick coating, and each one requires a new batch. Grout lines in the tiled countertop appear as indentations, then level out and vanish when the resurfacer is applied.
If the front edge of the countertop slopes over and down, use the float to follow those lines for a rounded edge with the concrete overlay.
If the front edge is squared, you may either follow the angles or smooth the overlay softly over the edge to create a rounded bullnose impression.
Consider experimenting initially on a scrap of plywood to get a feel for how to use the float or trowel and how quickly the material settles.
Completion.
If rough spots remain after the final coat is applied, lubricating them with water and sanding by hand with fine-grit sandpaper can assist. Dampening the final countertop with water on a regular basis causes it to cure slower, resulting in a tougher surface.
Plastic sheets over the surface keep moisture in and promote curing. It is not necessary to mist your plants with water every day, nor is it necessary to do so for a specific amount of time.
Even a few days may make a difference. After the countertop has been set to your satisfaction and all signs of water have been removed, apply epoxy concrete sealant to enhance gloss and stain resistance.
