How Do You Mount A Deck Frame To Concrete Foundation?

How Do You Mount A Deck Frame To Concrete Foundation?

If you want to create a low deck or wood patio next to a concrete foundation, you may have a great chance to fully strengthen the deck frame by attaching it to the foundation itself.

This removes the need for post holes and extra concrete near the foundation, which may be difficult at best and a significant hassle or impossible to perform correctly at worst.

This short lesson will walk you through the process of attaching the outer half of a deck frame to the concrete base, including attaching a frame to a curved concrete step. Here are the steps for attaching a deck frame to a concrete foundation;

Step 1. Take Measurements

Measure the perimeter of the deck frame and project the edge of the concrete foundation below the frame. This will help to ensure that the frame is positioned correctly.. A rotary hammer drill is a first and arguably most critical item you’ll need to install the deck frame to the concrete base. A rotary hammer drill generates a hammering force while drilling, making it an excellent instrument for drilling into concrete.

Step 2.

You may also require or find useful pressure-treated timber, a level, wedge anchors, a hammer, a ratchet, and a clamp. As well as a miter saw for creating timber cuts. You might also use a chalk line to establish your level line.

Step 3.

This example employs 1/2′′ wedge anchors that are 4-1/4″ long. To calculate the length required, figure 2-1/2″ for the anchor into the concrete, then whatever length will go through your lumber, plus 1/4″ for the anchor washer and nut.

Step 4.

As per the wedge anchor instructions, drill about 1/4″ deeper than 2-1/2″ into the concrete. Because it is more precise to position the 26 and drill through that into the concrete, we measured and marked the drill bit with colored tape 4-1/2″, which allows us a little more room just in case.

Step 5.

First, determine the height of your 26 pressure-treated frame pieces.  Consider the fact that you will be utilizing 26 redwood for the deck top while considering the location. Marked down the bottom of the scrap 2x with a pencil to identify exactly where the top of the frame should land on the concrete.

Step 6.

The pencil guideline for the top of the frame lumber may be seen here. Align your pressure-treated timber piece for the deck structure with your guideline. Make sure it’s level by using a level.

Step 7.

As the rotary hammer drill vibrates the timber and moves it slightly out of position if you’re not cautious, have one or two persons hold the framing board securely in place.

Drill through the timber and into the concrete using your rotary hammer drill, up to the point indicated on the drill bit with tape.

Step 8.

Slide the washer onto the wedge anchor, then thread the nut onto the anchor to secure it. Still holding the frame board snugly in place, hammer the wedge anchor into the frame board and concrete.

Step 9.

Hammer the wedge anchor into the board all the way. As you come closer to finishing with the hammer, you may need to loosen the nut slightly; remember, you only want around 1/4′′ of the wedge anchor exposed. Unscrew the nut a little further and pound in the anchor a little more.

Step 10.

Tighten the anchor into position after the top of the wedge anchor is level with the outside edge of the nut. Tighten down the anchor nut using a ratchet. It is normal for the lumber to bow inward somewhat when you tighten it. Don’t bother about turning it all the way down. You don’t want to harm or weaken the framing board.

Step 11.

Drill more holes while keeping the framing board level and snugly in place. An anchor should be placed every few feet as a general rule. If necessary, cut and butt additional frame boards next to the previous one. Maintain board levelness, even at connecting points. You can mount the boards up to about 6” in from the end of the board.

Step 12.

Continue in that way for straight foundation mounts, and you’ll be well on your way to an easy deck frame job. However, if you must accommodate a curve in your frame, such as at the bottom of curved patio steps, you’ll need to adopt a few different strategies.

Step 13.

First, cut smaller boards that will allow you to work around the curve. Each board should extend about 4”-6” past the curve on each side.

Step 14.

Take note that these boards may not always sit flat against the curve. They are stable, however, since the wedge anchors are inserted at the point on the board where the curve begins to split from the rear face of the board.

Step 15

Second, use a clamp to keep the pieces level; because they are smaller boards, everything is much closer to the drill bit, which may be nerve-racking for everyone. The clamp assists in keeping everything in place, but you’ll still need to apply some muscle to hold the board in place. Work your way around the curve, indicating where to cut each board length piece by piece, while keeping the pressure-treated timber boards level with the stairs.

Step 16.

You’ll see that the ends of these frame boards are touching but not flush. This is suitable for a deck frame. With their two wedge anchors into the concrete, the boards are secure and offer ample support for the deck frame.